Just another colorful block in Valparasio
Bundling together to keep warm
Amazing landscape in Chile
If you are going to skate on thin ice, you might as well tap dance on it
Posing with San Pedro´s version of Zoro
Streets of San Pedro de Atacama
So this is what we woke up at 3:30am for.....
Sunrise view of the geysers
Giving a hug to an old mateHola Chicos!
We hope you are all doing well.
This week we made our way half way up the country of Chile and what a ride it´s been. After our week of skiing in Portillo, we made the short journey to the beautiful seaside town of Valparasio, located about 90 minutes north of Santiago. Valparasio is a unique place, extremely cultured and scenic. The city is built on massive hills that rise up from the ocean and the houses and shops seem to barely hang on to the steep ledges (think San Francisco). As if this weren´t dramatic enough, the buildings in the city are all brightly painted with colors such as pink, purple, blue, yellow, orange and green. It really is a sight to see.
After an active week of skiing, our plan for Valpo (as the locals call it) were to just chill out and enjoy some Chilean cuisine...and that we did! Our daily routine consisted of a long lunches and dinners for which we would always choose a restaurant high up in the hills with a great view. In between we would wander the streets and try to catch a musician performing in the square.
Unfortunately, while all this eating made for a good experience for us, it doesn´t necessary translate to exciting reading for you. So we decided to change all that and head for more adventure. After 2 days in Valpo we embarked on a mammoth bus journey of about 1000 miles and finally arrived in the small desert oasis of San Pedro de Atacama. We have to say that San Pedro is one of the most interesting towns we have seen during our travels. Every building in the town is built in the traditional adobe style, made of mud and hay. It is a very picturesqe town.
However, the main attraction of San Pedro is not the town itself, it is the huge range of activites that are on offer in the surrounding desert. San Pedro is located in the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world. From flamingo spotting to sandboarding (yes SANDboarding) to geyser walking, there is enough activity there to keep even the most picky tourist happy.
Among the many activites we enjoyed in San Pedro, the geyser tour was our favorite. Now we know most of you will not believe this given the fact that we had to wake up at 3:30am for the tour! Yes, we were dragged out of bed at this ungodly hour and stuck on bus for the two hour trip to the geysers. Why you might ask a 3:3o start? The geysers are most active just before sunrise, so all of the tours leave early in the morning to take advantage. But it was worth it to see the sprays of boiling water and billows of steam rising out of crust of earth, especially coupled with the pink sunrise that emerged from behind the snow covered volcanoes.
And if you´re like us you might be asking how does a geyser work? Geysers are fairly common in areas with active volcanoes. The magma under the earth´s surface heats up the rocks below the crust which in turn act like a kettle and heat the water. The water reaches temperatures of up to 800 degrees farenheight and finally bursts through the crust due to all of the pressure. These bursts of water and steam are known as geysers. Although the biggest geyser is located in Yellowstone National Park (Old Faithful) in the US, the geysers here in Chile are unique for a couple of reasons. The first being that they are the highest geysers (in terms of elevation) in the world, located at an altitude of over 4000 meters (about 13,000 feet). The second reason is that they are completely natural and unmanipulated. This means that none of the geysers have been sealed to produce more pressure and activity in the open geysers, such as what has been done at Yellowstone National Park.
Sadly, these geysers are also special because in about two months they will be closed to tourists. The land has been sold to an electric company which plans to harness the energy of the geysers. Unfortunately tourism could not pay the bills and the government had to look elsewhere.
While in San Pedro we also had the opportunity to visit the salt flats and see wild flamingos. They are such graceful birds and when they would take off in flight it was fantastic to see their bright pink bodies streak across the blue sky.
After 5 great days in San Pedro, it was time to say goodbye to Chile and make the 12 hour bus journey back to Argentina. The bus ride involved crossing the Atacama Desert, the driest and highest in the world.
The bus arrived at the station to pick us up and we were overjoyed to see that it was a first class bus, complete with reclining seats, a bar on board and DVD players. This bus was brand spanking new, what a way to traverse the harsh desert climate! We crossed the Chillean border and chugged along through the desolate desert scenery enjoying the ride.
After about two hours we started to hear weird noises coming from the engine and the bus started to jerk back and forth. We pulled over and all that could be seen were the billows of black smoke emerging from our fancy bus. We waited and waited, in the middle of the desert, while the bus driver tried everything to get the engine going. Finally, the bus came back to life and we turned around to make the trip back to where we started. As if this wasnt bad enough, because we had crossed the Chile border, but had not yet immigrated to Argentina, we were considered illegal immigrants and not allowed to wander more than 10 feet from the bus. So, like a bunch of refugees, we stood in the shade of the broken bus for 2 hours while we waited for our replacement bus to arrive. It finally pulled up and by this point, we didnt even care that it was missing all of the luxuries of the previous bus! We made it to Argentina late in the night, but were still able to celebrate with a huge hunk of beef and a bottle of red.
We are planning to explore a few of the smaller towns in Northern Argentina in the next few days. We look forward to updating you on the last few weeks of our trip.
Talk to you soon!
Lauren and Troy